Post script

We all love a secret, don't we? And the Postal Museum's secret railway is one of the best. Mail Rail runs underneath London's streets. It used to deliver mail, and now the 100 year old network delivers delights to museum visitors in its tiny trains. The museum has been nominated as Museum of the Year 2018, and it's only been open a few months - I guess the railway won't be secret much longer.

Some seem surprised that this museum has been such a success, but I'm just as surprised that they're surprised. People have an innate need to communicate, and the story of our postal service is fascinating. It's battled through attacks by highwaymen, bombs and even a lion (it's worth a visit to the museum for that story alone).

The secret railway sign is on the paving of a pretty garden area which includes a living wall studded with red post boxes. For fans of food, the cafe is worth a mention, as it's a notch better than the usual fare. So it's probably worth a visit now, while it's still (nearly) a secret. More info here.

Gathering of strangers

Here's a fabulous sign by artist Nathan Coley, at Manchester's wonderful Whitworth Art Gallery. Part of Art in the Park, the coloured lights draw the eye upwards, a statement in the sky. Since its renovation, the gallery has been recognised as one of the country's leading visitor attractions, and it's one of my favourite places. The gorgeous building and garden are worth a visit even if you don't love art.

Wild thing

Here's a pretty tiled entrance sign in Stockport's lovely old market place. I believe Wild was a shoe shop - the building is now part of the excellent Stockport Story museum. It's in an interesting part of town: the beautiful Victorian covered market has a great vintage fair once a month. The atmospheric Staircase House museum is next door. And once you've done all that you can treat yourself to a fantastic Art Deco afternoon tea in the Plaza. All this just seven miles out of Manchester. If you're coming from that direction, why not treat yourself to a trip on the fabled 192 bus route too?

A spring in your step

Spring thoughts from a sign in the garden of the Elizabeth Gaskell House in Manchester. Well worth a visit - great guides, fascinating history and extremely good cake.

Usual toll applies

There's a bewildering list of tolls on this sign on the Old Toll House in the village of South Brent, Devon. Reading this, I think I understand where our complex tax laws come from. I particularly like the catch-all "For every stall exposing article of whatsoever description for sale" - the usual toll, of course, applies. The toll house dates from the late 18th or early 19th century and is a grade II listed building.

Proper use of the paper

Surprise venue of last week was Irlam station, which turned out to be a delight. The station, built in 1893, was derelict for 25 years, and opened last year after a £2 million revamp. The restorers clearly had a love of signs and railway paraphernalia, creating a venue worth a visit in its own right. There's a great cafe where you get to sit in seats decked out like third class railway carriages, plus evidence of a sense of humour and a loving touch. Just watch your behaviour when you use the toilet.

Gun ho

This ghost sign in Lisbon city centre looks like it's straight out of the Wild West. Advertising shotguns, revolvers, pistols, loads, all accessories for hunters and articles for fencing (more swordsmanship than gardening, I guess) it's on a building which now sells men's clothing. I've no idea how old it is (can anyone enlighten me?) but it's not alone - there are a number of fine ghost signs in this pretty city.

Nice day for a nuclear bunker

We visited Hack Green Secret Nuclear Bunker last weekend, and it's surprisingly interesting. Offering a careful mix of the chilling and cheerful, this ugly bunker nestles in the Cheshire countryside and is now a successful tourist attraction.

Hack Green was a radar station in World War two, and went on to play a key role in the Cold War, its long-range radar designed to detect hostile Russian bombers.



With nuclear weapons still in the news, it's a sobering visit. The usual Protect and Survive leaflet is there (hide under the table, built a shelter out of your house doors), which would be funny if it wasn't serious government advice to its citizens.

A huge amount of memorabilia and equipment has been gathered together and displayed in a thoughtful way, with a great soundscape and a smell of damp which I don't think had to be artificially created. There are lots of great signs for the sign enthusiast - my favourites feature here - and best of all there are three bunker cats.

It's worth a visit, even on a sunny day.

Take cover

Rather a chilling sight on a sunny afternoon in Stockport: a sign directing you to shops, taxis - and the air raid shelter.

No, it's not a bleak peak into a seemingly inevitable future, but an invitation to step into the past and see the second world war air raid shelters cut into the sandstone cliffs. They're still there, and they're worth a visit. Check out my previous post for more information. 

Pottering

You don't need to be a wizard to guess where I went this weekend. I had a magical time at the Warner Brothers Studio Tour of the Harry Potter film sets. And it was wonderful, for all kinds of reasons, not least because I got a picture of the Privet Drive street sign. 

The first sign of good times was the customer experience - every member of staff was clearly on a mission to ensure you enjoyed the visit. We felt welcomed. Everything was spotless, in working order and well organised. 

It was also full of delights and surprises. I won't spoil it for you by giving it all away, but they stuck to their brand and offered a cinematic experience for visitors. 

And it was emotional. The Harry Potter stories deal with the big topics of life. Love and death, good versus evil, choice and destiny, individual and state. Yes, it's a tourist attraction, and yes it's expensive, but above all the tour is a celebration of innovation, creativity and ingenuity. The sheer pleasure J K Rowling brought to so many people with the Harry Potter books was evident everywhere. 

 

 

Romance in Reykjavik

You need your gloves in Iceland: it's cold. I spotted this sign, with its artistic display of lost gloves, in the centre of Reykjavik.

It seems to capture the underplayed, knowing humour and phlegmatic stoicism of the Icelanders.

The middle way

When in London, have the courage to veer off the main streets and into the little alleyways and narrow lanes. You’ll be rewarded with some of the more interesting sights of the city.

Middle Temple Lane is just off the Strand, where it meets Fleet Street. It is one of London’s four inns of court. Nip down here and you feel you’re in a different century. It was the home of the Knights Templar, those medieval crusaders. Set up as hostels and schools for lawyers in the 13^th century, Middle Temple now houses barristers’ offices (or chambers). Worth a visit for its picturesque cobbled lanes, gardens and church.

Gorgeous Gaskell house

If you live anywhere near Manchester, get down to the Elizabeth Gaskell house, recently restored and open to the public. The house is shown as a home, as if Elizabeth had just left the room to write a quick chapter or to welcome another guest. As well as displays on Gaskell and Victorian Manchester, there is a great library full of titles the family read - and you’re actually allowed to touch things. They also do a nice line in quotes on the wall and really excellent cake. Check it out here. 

Ghost train

You're surrounded by history in Plymouth's Barbican area. This wonderful ghost sign has survived competition, depression, blitz and redevelopment, and happily towers over tourists today.